Scrambling, Slime and Slugs in that order

19th June, 2011

by Ann Jamm
Another wet weekend meet in the Lakes, and my retail therapy plan was outvoted by Our Glorious Leader’s Ghyll Scrambling Plan. Too much to tell, so the ‘highlight’ only:

We find ourselves halfway up Lorton Gully and faced with a wall of green slime. The E2 Leader in our party is volunteered to ‘pop up it’ first, but traditional tactics are required. So A. bridges across the gully to simultaneously provide a foothold and ‘block’ E2L’s fall (see photo 1). But A. starts to slide downwards, so Our Glorious Leader uses her shoulder to wedge her in place (rugby prop-forward style – see photo 2 for precise positioning). The rest of us are standing on the ledge behind watching apprehensively, with good reason – a) it’s our turn next and b) we’re trying to block out images of dominoes and skittles. Finally Our Glorious Leader takes the lead and bridges/udges up, with double blocking from E2L and A. below. “What a hoot!” she exclaims as she heaves onto the ledge above. Not quite the expletive I’d have used in her position.

Footnote: Once safely over this crux, A. points out a slug on E2 leader’s finger: “Oh I thought my finger felt heavier than usual” was a pretty cool response.

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Direct Route, Glyder Fach – where else would you rather be?

4th June, 2011

By Ann Jamm
I don’t complain all the time. And here’s why – Direct Route (***HS) on Glyder Fach. As Sue* remarked, the first pitch alone makes the lengthy walk-in worthwhile. After that, each pitch is better than the last. Pitch 2 has a lovely flake with a delicate reachy move, pitch 3 a stonking hand traverse with a sneaky foot jam. Topped off by the Final Crack – a hefty 4c challenge led by Sue, but very protectable. And from every stance the views got more spectacular. It was one of those days that makes you feel so lucky you’re a climber!

A couple of tips:

Walk in from Ogwen Cottage (1h30m) not Milestone Buttress (2h30m);

Descent from Direct Route is up and right which takes you to a gully scramble descent and single abseil, not left which takes you to the top of the crag and a 3 pitch abseil and jammed ropes.

* Four out of six of us on the meet were Sues, for simplicity I’ve called everyone Sue.

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